"A finished coquette at a ball asked a gentleman near her while she adjusted her tucker, whether he could flirt a fan which she held in her hand. 'No, Madame,' answered he, proceeding to use it, 'but I can fan a flirt.'"

Port Folio
1802

A lady would no sooner leave the house without her hat or gloves as without her fan. In the years before central air conditioning, it was an essential tool, not only for comfort but also communication. Made of wood or ivory and embellished with anything from small mirrors and jewels to portraits and feathers*, fans were certainly a versatile accessory. Fans, plain or fancy, with paint or lace trim, in any size or shape were certainly a necessity.

In their book, Accessories of Dress, Katherine Lester and Bess Oerke state that, "The great triumph of the fan in the 18th cy led to the establishment of certain conventions and gestures in handling the fan which were considered of first importance. In gesture, in repose, the lady was invariably revealed by the way whe managed her fan! Though she possessed all the charms of beauty and distinction and failed in this, she passed quietly into social oblivion." With the fading of elaborate "Court Manners" during the Regency, the manipulation of the fan became of less importance, though it retained it's place "as a natural extension of feminine body language, slightly refined and channeled by precepts of etiquette." The art of "fluttering", (fanning one's self in a graceful, and at times, meaningful way) was said to take three months to master, and many girls doubtlessly spent hours practicing.

By Victorian times, the fan had once again become the symbol of feminine flirtation. Towards the end of the 19th century, we find lists, however comical, being drawn up. These lists, though humorous today, were published for the "education" of young ladies. (Is it really so different from much of what is published in today's teen magazines?) Some some of these gestures and their meanings follow:

With handle to lips Kiss me Carrying it in the right hand in front of face Follow me Carrying in the left hand Desirous of Acquaintance Placing it on left ear You have changed Twirling in left hand I wish to get rid of you Drawing across forehead We are watched Carrying in right hand You are too willing Drawing accross right cheek I love you Drawing through hand I hate you Twirling in right hand I love another Closing it I wish to speak to you Drawing across eyes I am sorry Letting it rest on right cheek Yes Letting it rest on left cheek No Open and shut You are cruel Dropping We are friends Fanning slowly I am married Fanning fast I am engaged Open wide Wait for me

(Certainly, this is an idealized list. Please remember that, while I got this list at the Indianapolis Children's Museum, it is best if taken tongue-in-cheek!)

With such a language as this a few questions spring to mind:

• It is obviously not a private conversation if everyone knows what you are talking about...I wonder how much gossip was started by someone's unintentional signing?
• How many relationships were nipped in the bud because it was hot and the young lady was simply trying to stay cool?

Special Note: If using a Maribou fan, stick to white feathers. Colors tend to look tacky with Regency wear.

Want more information on the Language of Fans? Look Here!

For another list of gestures and meanings, look here.

For a list of resources and suppliers, check my Boutique.

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